A Trip Down Sewing Memory Lane

Well readers,

In spite of the title,  it really wasn’t too long ago (August 2011 to be exact) that I made this dress, but I had to share it because it was my first dress ever! Prior to this I only sewed tops and accessories. It’s hardly a dress but the ties at the back make it more on the dress side (yeah?). It’s a bit on the short side but that’s what makes it so versatile! You can (only) wear it with pants and leggings!

I basically just lengthened the top from Vogue 7884 (an easy pattern that I LOVE) and added ties at the back to get rid of the fluffiness in the center, that didn’t do much because it still looks fluffy, but I’m happy to say that 8 months later I’m still wearing this baby out and about! I just love cap sleeves don’t you?!

Did you recognize the fabric? Yes, that’s right, it’s Cecilia from IKEA (again!) and no I’m not done with it yet. I…erm…bought over 3 meters of it without having a specific project in mind and have been forcing myself to use it all to teach myself a lesson in compulsive fabric shopping (has it worked? probably not).

Do you have any projects like this, ones that mark a milestone in your creative life?

<3

Salma

P.S. – I am still working on my epic sewing project in case you guys are wondering if I actually sew, I’ll share pics as soon as I’m done, I promise!

Essential Sewing Tools – The Sewing Gauge

Hi folks,

I have to thank Liz over at zilredloh for choosing me as the winner of her awesome March Giveaway! Look at all the amazing stuff I won!

March Giveaway goodies from zilredloh!

Guys, that’s a real sewing book from 1957! Can you believe it?! And a belt making kit, and vintage rayon seam binding (I love the stuff!) and vintage buttons!

I also have to thank my sewing gauge, that little inconspicuous but much loved tool that was the subject of discussion in my winning comment (a response to Liz’s question over what sewing tool we wished we had known about when we first started sewing), I said:

“Oh goodness that’s easy, I wish I had invested in a sewing gauge when I first started sewing because my seam allowances were never correct and I ended up with very strange-looking garments and used to get so very frustrated! It’s a good thing I smartened up and got one later!”

Liz suggested I demonstrate how I use my sewing gauge so here it goes, sewing gauge, this one is for you. It is ridiculously easy to use (people who can count with average math skills and a steady hand probably don’t even need it).

Here is how I measure my 3/8″  (1cm) seam allowance, I count three little fractions (marked by small lines at the top). The little blue slider helps position the fabric precisely, use it!

And here’s how to measure a 5/8″ (1.5 cm) seam allowance – count five little lines!

Most patterns call for a 3/8″ or 5/8″ seam allowance.  All you have to do is just count the little lines until they match up with the right fraction of 8. If I’m stitching on slippery fabric (I mean you, chiffon) I just make tiny pen dot marks at the end of my gauge and follow it with my needle (you could use that circle at the top left hand corner to mark your fabric, but people like me get confused because the circle takes up 1/8″ and then I have to add another 1/8″ at the end to even it out – I’m making this sound more complicated than it really is).

I know it might sound unnecessary but I think all beginners need one, it makes the difference in fit and a clean finish for whatever you’re sewing. It’s also ridiculously cheap (unless you want to splurge and buy one designed by those brilliant German and Scandinavian companies). I bought this for 1$ at the local dollar store, and it came with a seam ripper and a needle threader (yay!).

There you have it, the sewing gauge, an essential sewing tool.

Peace,

Salma

Spring Inspiration: Vintage Designer Coat Patterns

Happy March readers!

Spring is around the corner and that means I need a new spring coat. That also means that I spent a ridiculous amount of time the last couple of days searching for a pattern that I like.

I was looking through Ebay and Etsy listings for a classic a-line(ish) coat sewing pattern, preferably a Vogue Paris Original (just because it’s time I own one of those) something along the lines of  a 1960′s-1970′s Patou, Balmian or Molyneaux (ooh fancy!), and then finally, I came across this total beauty (Vogue 1356) and my heart started racing…

Image from grannigertsattic etsy shop

…until I realized it wasn’t in my size (and then my heart sank because I don’t think I’m ready to grade a coat pattern! and a designer one at that!). It’s very reasonably priced at $7.99 (the next one I found was $18.00, and then $35.00) so if you’d like the original thing check out grannigertsattic shop on Etsy* (disclaimer: I’m not being paid to advertise this, I just thought  it would be nice to give them a shoutout if I’m using their image for my blog).

I dug around the net some more for some closeups to examine the construction:

So what did I do? Well, I thought about “making do” with what I already have (meh…sometimes this is not so fun). I flipped through all my paper and e-patterns hoping to find one that would come reasonably close with some pattern alterations and modifications and guess what guys?! With a little bit of this and a little but of that, the FREE Talea pattern on Burdastyle comes pretty close don’t you think?!

Image courtesy of Burdastyle.com

All I have to do is omit the shoulder detailing, sleeve cuff and back waist half belt thingey, turn the pockets into side welt pockets and can you believe it?! A free Molyneaux inspired coat! Thank you Burdastyle!

Next: how to make the dress in that pattern (also: the hat, I need it).

But: It’s March now and my Minoru muslin is still sitting there half cut and I didn’t even touch my craftsy BOM quilt blocks for February yet. Why? I’m working on another project of epic proportions (no, no,  not a wedding dress, though that is quite possibly the most epic thing one can sew) that I’ll tell you about soon! I did finish the Colette Crepe dress though (I’m just waiting for nice sunny weather to take pictures of it before I show you).

Happy sewing!

-Salma

Dressing like a Celebrity: Oscar Top Ten

Readers,

It’s time for the obligatory Oscar style post. I should have done this yesterday but I was scouring the web for my favorite dresses (because I take this all very seriously).

I mostly watch the Oscars for the clothing (but I think I watched most of the movies nominated this year! I’m addicted to the movies) and I think this year was the best dressed Oscars in a long time! Most years I can’t really relate to the dresses out there, they’re too revealing (or just plain wacky) but this year was different! There were dresses I could actually see myself wearing (if I could afford them and/or sew them myself). Here’s my top ten:

1.

Sharmeen Obaid Chinoy with her Oscar!

So stunning!

Guys, this was my all time favorite outfit, probably because it was just like the traditional South Asian clothing I wear to formal events but I just loved it, the color, the embroidery/applique, her shoes (oh I just love Sharmeen’s shoes). I’d probably do without the jewels on the arms and add sleeves but I just went ga-ga over this. I want it (and I don’t know who the designer is).

2.

Sandra Bullock in Marchesa, courtesy of StyleBistro.com

I love the semi-cowl neck and cap sleeves on this dress, such easy elegance! I’ve never really liked the dropped waist look on myself so I’d probably want the bodice to sit higher at the natural waist.

3.

Louise Roe in Black Halo, courtesy of StyleBistro.com

I really really love this little suit-skirt outfit, it has a very 1940′s feel to it, the belt and matching clutch finish it off so nicely. I’ve got to sew something like this one day!

4.

Berenice Bejo in Elie Saab, courtesy of StyleBistro.com

I have to admit, I didn’t really think much of this dress on Oscar night, but when I saw it in the pictures the next morning I was blown away. It’s such a modern gown with just a touch of  the 1930′s silhouette.

5.

Shailene Woodley in Valentino Couture, courtesy of StyleBistro.com

Ooooh maxi dress! I love it, it’s like a futuristic tribute to the 1970′s (make sense? doesn’t matter, maxi dresses always win).

6.

Melissa McCarthy in Marina Rinaldi, courtesy of StyleBistro.com

So very Grecian! I just love this dress and the floaty pink chiffon colour is so dreamy, imagine walking around in that all day. I think I’d shorten the sleeves just a bit though.

7.

Maya Rudolph in Johanna Johnson, courtesy of StyleBistro.com

I LOVE the color and the cap sleeves. The embellished back bodice would be such a pretty sari blouse.

8.

Michelle Williams in Louis Vuitton, courtesy of StyleBistro.com

I can’t really see myself in this but Michelle Williams looked so elegant that I just had to include her in this post. I love everything this woman wears.

9.

Octavia Spencer in Tadashi Shoji, courtesy of StyleBistro.com

Octavia Spencer looked stunning, I just loved everything about her outfit. The dress is so flattering and her accessories were so balanced. She was the best dressed celebrity!

10.

Meryl Streep in Lanvin, courtesy of StyleBistro.com

This dress I loved, not so much for the color but for the style. Why?

Because I have a similar sewing pattern in my collection! It’s a  Retro Butterick (B5152) reproduction of an original pattern from 1948, see?!

Who knew?! Meryl and I have similar tastes!

Happy Sewing!

-Salma

My Leibster Shoutouts

Two posts for today!

In January, Laura over at AboutGoodness awarded me a Leibster! From what I gather, the Leibster award is given to bloggers who have under 200 followers, by other fellow bloggers. According to Laura, “Liebster is German for “dear, sweet, kind, nice, good, beloved, lovely, kindly, pleasant, valued, cute, endearing and welcome.”  Dankeschön Laura (and Google translate)!

The rules of accepting this award are:

Rule #1. You must acknowledge the blogger who gave you the award by linking back to them.
Rule # 2. Give this award to 5 other bloggers. Please let them know through a comment on their blog.
Rule #3. Post this wonderful award on your blog.
Rule #4. 
Bask in the glory bestowed upon you and appreciate all the amazing bloggers out there.
Rule# 5. Enjoy and spread the good vibes around.

It’s taken me some time to gather up some blogs because I’m new to the sewing blogland and I can’t be sure of how many followers they have but these are my pics!

1. Symondezyn – A fellow blogger whose sewing projects (hello blue chiffon blouse!) and graphic illustrations I love.

2.Stir and Stitch – A sewing, baking and crochet blog that regularly makes me hungry for baked goods.

3. She Sews to Conquer – Skylar Chastain makes gorgeous accessories and blogs about them too. I love browsing through her stuff for inspiration and tutorials.

4. Such Wild Love – A blogger/artist with a sewing space that is to DIE for because of the inspirational view! She also finds and posts some of the most beautiful poems I’ve ever read.

5. Miss Make - I love everything about this blog, and her absolutely GENIUS quilt. I must make this.

Check them out and happy sewing folks!

-Salma

Sew Grateful Week Giveaway Winner!

Hi there!

I hope you all enjoyed Sew Grateful Week as much as I did and a big thank you to Debi for organizing it, I can’t wait to participate in it again! I didn’t win anything this time but I’m just as glad to be part of it and I can’t wait to see how everyone’s projects/patterns turn out!

And now, the winner of Beautifully Sewn’s first ever giveaway is:

Kim you were the 7th commenter on the original giveaway post: “This is a beautiful pattern, it would be fantastic to have the chance to make it. Thanks.”

Congratulations Kim, I can’t wait to see how your blouse (or will you make all three?) turns out! I’ll send you an email shortly!

Thank you so much to everyone who participated!

Happy Sewing (while I sit and watch old runs of “Brideshead Revisited” – oh how I LOVE British period drama’s)!

Peace

-Salma

My Pads4Girls Sewing Tutorial

Hi folks!

I was originally going to post this later during the month but after joining the Sew Grateful Week challenge hosted by the lovely and super talented Debi at My Happy Sewing Place, I’ve decided to go ahead with this today since it fits in with the theme of Sew Grateful Week so well.

But first, a little history:

I really like crafting/sewing for charity and non-profit organizations because it allows me to put a personal touch on causes that I really care about and give back to the world in my own little way. This past November I buckled down and did just that by making 19 sets of resuable menstrual pads for Lunapads Pads4Girls campaign.

The Pads4Girls campaign is organized by the good people at Lunapads who make and sell environmentally friendly, organic, all natural and reusable menstrual supplies. Pads4Girls facilitates the donation of purchased and handmade reusable menstrual products for girls in developing countries so they can stay in school longer and not feel ashamed of something so very normal. As soon as I heard about this campaign, I knew I had to contribute.

I contacted Lunapads and they sent me an email detailing the material and design requirements for accepting donations of hand sewn pads (you also have the option to financially donate pads through their organization if you prefer). I also spent some time thinking about how the design could encompass the needs of girls from diverse socioeconomic and physical environments. So I came up with a checklist for a pad pattern that had to take these three things into consideration:

1) All pads had to be made of all natural materials, I went with 100% cotton flannel.

2) The design had to adjust to individual requirements (i.e – girls should be able to add/reduce layers as they see fit)

3) All pads had to be easily washed and dried by hand (in case the girls did not have access to laundry machines and/or electricity).

There are tons of really great patterns available on the net, check here, here and here, but in the end I decided to use those as inspirational starting points and come up with my own. So now in honor of Sew Grateful Week, I’m going to show you how you can do it too (If you’re doing this to contribute to the Pads4Girls campaign, just send Lunapads an email to let them know you’re doing this).

Tutorial for One Cloth Pad Liner and Pad Holder:

You will need:

-  Pre-washed 100% cotton twill tape (or ricrac), cut two 10 inch strips.

-  Pre-washed 100% cotton flannel pieces. Cut 2 pieces measuring 10 inches by 11 inches, this will be your pad liner (I rounded the corners for comfort on the large pieces). Cut another 2 pieces measuring 4 inches by 10 inches, this will be your pad holder.

- Button or closure of your choice

-Thread

-Scissors

- Sewing Machine (or if you’ve got tons of sewing mojo, your hands :) )

Let’s begin!

Step 1:

Stitch your two 10 inch by 11 inch pieces right sides together around the edges (don’t forget to backstitch), leaving a small opening to turn it inside out later. I used a 3/8′ seam allowance. Press your seam, notch your corners (don’t they look like monster teeth?) and turn inside out and press again.

Step 2:

Zig-zag stitch all around the piece you just turned inside out (including the opening) and press. You just made the pad liner! Set aside.

Step 3:

Place the two 10 inch strips of twill tape across the right side of one of the 4 inch by 10 inch pieces and stitch in place.

Step 4:

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 for the 4 inch by 10 inch pieces. The twill tape will be sandwiched between the two pieces at this point.

Step 5:

Yell at machine for making wonky zig-zag stitches. Don’t hit it though, might make things worse. Take a deep breath and just keep stitching (I’m sure it’s not that bad…)

Step 6:

On the two ends of the right side of your pad holder (the one with the twill tape pieces across it), mark your buttonhole and button placement. Think of the pad holder as the “wings” of the pad and fold one end over the other at the back to estimate placement. Sew buttonhole and attach button.

Step 7:

Fold up the liner and slide it in the pad holder and voila! You are done! As a general rule, for every pad holder I made two liners, you can stick with one or add more because the twill tape is really accommodating while holding everything in place.

I wish you all a happy and crafty Sew Grateful Week!

Peace,

Salma

Sew Grateful Week Giveaway!

Hi there!

After hearing about My Happy Sewing Place’s Sew Grateful Week, I decided that I had to join in and thank the online sewing world online for teaching me so much and welcoming a new blogger like me with kindness and encouragement!

My contribution to Sew Grateful Week is a now out of print Vogue Pattern that I bought a couple of years ago not realizing that it was not the right size and also not refundable. Without further ado:

It’s V7829 in sizes 6, 8 and 10 (Bust: 30.5, 31.5 and 32.5), uncut and in factory folds. So if you like it just leave a comment and I’ll draw a winner via random draw next week on February 15th, 2012.

Be sure to check out all the giveaway goodies at My Happy Sewing Place  and join in the fun!

*Update* – I feel like such a loser for this and I should have mentioned this earlier, but at present moment I’m only able to include participants from North America only (Canada and USA) . I am so sorry about this and I hope to be able to include folks all over the globe in my next giveaway.

Happy sewing folks!

Peace,

Salma

Transferring Dart Markings from Pattern to Fabric – Tutorial

Happy February!

Can you believe how fast January flew by?! Only 11 more months to keep up with my sewing resolutions!

I mentioned last time that I was working on Colette’s Crepe pattern, and so far it’s coming along all thanks to Gertie’s Sew-Along posts! I’ll have more construction details later but I thought I’d share a tip about how I transfer my pattern dart markings to paper because I’m really not a fan of thread tracing (but I will do it if I have to) and I don’t always feel like using tailor’s tacks and I haven’t used a tracing wheel/carbon paper yet so this has been working for me so far! Before I begin, let me just highlight that I always work from a tracing of the original patterns, and you may wish to as well if you’re using this method and don’t want to damage the original pattern. Let’s begin:

Here is my traced copy of the bodice pattern and you can see it has bust and under bust darts.

I snip one side of the dart marking, usually the right side, all the way up to the tip and stop there.

Then I lift the flap that I’ve just created and fold it to the left.

I repeat the process with the bust dart and I’m ready to trace onto the fabric.

Wanna see it in action? Alright, let’s do it again!

Here’s the traced pattern with the cut fabric pinned underneath (ignore the other markings – I make a mess of my patterns, just focus on the dart)

Snip n’ fold!

Trace it! (preferably with a Halloween themed pencil, lol)

and….voila!

I can’t emphasize how important it is to keep your fabric pinned to your pattern while you’re doing this, it keeps everything in place so you don’t end up with a wonky marking. Pattern weights (or your preferred substitute) are great for keeping the dart flap firmly on one side as you trace. Feel free to share your tips and tricks for transferring pattern markings!

Happy Sewing!

Peace

Salma